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Frequently asked questions

RO strips out dissolved minerals, chlorine, chloramine and other contaminants that tap water can contain, giving fish keepers a "blank slate" they can then remineralise precisely to match the water chemistry needed for specific fish, corals, or planted tanks — something that's hard to control starting from unpredictable tap water.

The core membrane technology is the same, but aquarium systems are typically sized for higher, more continuous output to fill larger volumes of water for tank changes, and they skip the remineralisation stage most drinking water systems include, since aquarists dose minerals separately to hit specific target parameters.

For most freshwater setups, RO alone is sufficient. For reef tanks or very sensitive species where near-zero TDS is required, an RO/DI system adds a deionisation stage after the membrane to polish the water further — check your target TDS before deciding whether DI is necessary.

This depends heavily on your usage volume and incoming water quality — high-volume users (large tanks, frequent water changes) will need to replace pre-filters and membranes more often than someone doing occasional smaller changes. Watch your output TDS reading as the clearest signal the membrane needs replacing.

This depends on your tank volume and how often you do water changes — a larger, more frequently maintained tank needs a higher-output system to avoid long waits for water. Tell us your tank size and typical water change routine and we can help you size the right system.